Your contact is somewhere in this sea of faces, but you can’t be seen talking to him — can’t even acknowledge his existence. One wrong move, one glance from the wrong person, and years of careful work — not to mention your life — could be over in an instant.

This is where the brush pass comes in. A technique perfected during the Cold War, it allowed spies to exchange documents, money, or other small items without ever appearing to interact. Two operatives would simply walk past each other, and in that brief, choreographed moment, critical intelligence would change hands.

You may not be running clandestine ops behind the Iron Curtain, but the brush pass remains one of the most elegant and discreet ways to transfer something unnoticed. Requiring subtle technique and magician-like sleight of hand, it’s a master art of secret-agent subterfuge. 

Illustration by Ted Slampyak

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

An important part of manhood has always been about having the competence to be effective in the world — having the breadth of skills, the savoir-faire, to handle any situation you find yourself in. With that in mind, each Sunday we’ll be republishing one of the illustrated guides from our archives, so you can hone your manly know-how week by week

When it comes to holidays that don’t get a lot of hype, Flag Day must be at or near the top of the list. You may not have known it was this Saturday, that it’s celebrated every June 14th, and that it commemorates the adoption of the Stars and Stripes as the official flag of the United States on June 14, 1777, by a resolution of the Second Continental Congress. 

Though Flag Day is not a federal holiday, it’s observed with patriotic flag-raising ceremonies, and citizens are encouraged to display the American flag outside their homes and businesses. The day also serves to educate people on proper flag etiquette.

One of those points of flag etiquette is how to properly fold the American flag.

The American flag is folded into a triangular shape as a show of respect and dignity during various situations. This practice is performed after lowering the flag, particularly at sunset, to prepare it for proper storage. The triangle fold is also used in military and patriotic ceremonies, such as Memorial Day and Veterans Day events, and is a key tradition at military funerals, where the flag is presented to the family of a fallen service member. The folding process is designed to honor the flag’s significance, with the triangular shape representing a tricorn hat, a nod to soldiers of the Revolutionary War.

Illustration by Ted Slampyak

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

An important part of manhood has always been about having the competence to be effective in the world — having the breadth of skills, the savoir-faire, to handle any situation you find yourself in. With that in mind, each Sunday we’ll be republishing one of the illustrated guides from our archives, so you can hone your manly know-how week by week.

In most urban situations, the cell phone is the ultimate survival tool. With it, you can call for help, get directions, and look up practical information (you’ve downloaded a digital survival library, right?). In the wilderness, if your phone’s signal is faint or non-existent, it’s a significantly less useful tool, but it can still come in handy as a lightweight camera, a basic GPS unit, and, if you’re lucky, even a way to send a SOS message. In many cases however, a phone’s most useful functions are ironically unavailable in true survival situations. But, that doesn’t mean your favorite handheld device can’t get you out of a jam.

Inside your phone, a powerful lithium-ion battery has the potential to spark a fire if you know how to harness its potential. Keep in mind, taking your phone apart and using the battery to start a fire is likely to ruin it, so think carefully about whether you want to trade the potential for a signal for the chance at a fire. Also, remember that even after your battery is too low to run your phone, it likely still has enough power to spark a fire. 

Finally, if the above method fails, there is one final possible solution: Puncturing your battery with a knife or sharp object can release toxic and highly flammable gas that is likely to cause the battery to ignite and even explode. If it’s your last resort, cover your nose and mouth with a cloth and your eyes with glasses if possible, and then puncture the battery quickly. Once punctured, set your tinder bundle on top and step away until the battery has ceased releasing toxic fumes.

Like this illustrated guide? Then you’re going to love our book The Illustrated Art of Manliness! Pick up a copy on Amazon.

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

A few years ago, we were cat-sitting for some friends. They gave me keys to the exterior door leading into their garage. Once inside, I was able to access the unlocked door that went from the garage into the house. Easy peasy.

Well, one day, I took my kids with me to feed the cats, and one of them decided to lock the spring-loaded latch as we exited the house into the garage. As I was about to leave through the garage door, I started to hear the click-click-click of the gas stove ignitor.

Since there was no one else in the house, that was definitely weird.

“Holy crap!” I thought. “The cats must be turning on the gas stove! They’re going to blow up the house! I got to get in there to turn it off . . . but I don’t have keys to unlock this door!”

Thankfully, I had my wallet with me. I pulled out a rewards card and shimmied open the spring-latched door — just like MacGyver would.

When the door popped open, the cats were staring at me. I rushed to the stove. The gas wasn’t turned on. I called my friend to ask about the clicking noise.

“Oh, yeah,” he said. “The ignitor does that sometimes. The gas isn’t on, but the ignitor will make that clicking noise. Don’t sweat it.”

Non-crisis averted.

If you’re ever in an actual emergency where you need to open a door you don’t have keys for, it’s good to have the know-how illustrated above in your back pocket. While this method won’t work on every type of lock (like deadbolts or high-security locks), it can work on spring-latch locks, which are typically found on interior doors.

By doing nothing more than sliding a flexible plastic card (preferably one you don’t mind potentially damaging) between the door frame and the locking mechanism, you can often gain entry in under a minute without harming the door or the lock.

The next time you think a cat has figured out how to turn the knobs on a stove, you’ll be prepared.

Illustration by Ted Slampyak

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

We’re back with another class of Bike Maintenance 101.

Last time, we discussed how to patch an innertube.

In today’s session, we’re going to show you how to clean and maintain the workhorse of your bike: the drivetrain.

Whether you ride trails, city streets, or weekend loops through the suburbs, your bike’s drivetrain takes the biggest beating. It’s constantly exposed to dirt, water, and grime, and if you don’t clean it regularly, that grit starts acting like sandpaper, wearing down your drivetrain prematurely.

Fortunately, cleaning the drivetrain doesn’t take much time and can extend the life of your bike.

Here’s how to do it.

What Is the Drivetrain?

The drivetrain includes:

• The front chainrings
• Rear derailleur
• Cassette (the gears on the back wheel)
• The chain itself

What You’ll Need

Before you start, gather the following supplies:

• A few old rags
• A firm brush (an old toothbrush works fine)
• Bio-degreaser
• Chain lubricant
• Optional: A chain-cleaning device

How to Clean and Lube Your Bike’s Drivetrain

1. Set Up Your Bike

If you have a bike stand, now’s the time to use it. Elevating your bike makes cleaning more comfortable and gives you full access to the drivetrain. If you don’t have a bike stand, you can just flip the bike upside down and rest it on its seat and handlebars.

2. Clean the Chain

If your chain isn’t too gunked up, a simple rag and bio-degreaser will do the trick.

Just dampen the rag with degreaser, grip the chain with the rag, and pedal backward to run the chain through the cloth.

For a chain that’s heavily coated with crud, use a chain-cleaning device. These clamp around the chain and scrub it as you pedal, offering a deeper clean with less mess. They’re pretty nifty.

3. Scrub the Chainrings and Cassette

Use your brush and some bio-degreaser to scrub the chainrings (the front gears) and the cassette (the cluster of gears on your rear wheel).

While turning the pedals, work the brush into the teeth to dislodge dirt and buildup.

If there’s stubborn gunk between the cassette cogs, use a rag to “floss” between the gears.

4. Let Everything Dry

Give the drivetrain a few minutes to dry completely before applying lube. You don’t want moisture diluting or displacing the lubricant.

5. Lubricate the Chain

Apply a drop of lubricant to each link of the chain as you slowly rotate the pedals backward. Once you’ve gone all the way around, wipe off any excess lube with a clean rag. Too much lubricant will attract dirt and defeat the purpose of your cleaning.

There you go. How to clean your bike’s drivetrain.

If you’re a casual rider, a once-a-month cleaning and lubing should be enough. If you’re putting in serious miles, every other week would be better. Add it to your home maintenance checklist on Todoist. And if you took your bike through a wet and muddy ride, give it clean and lubing when you get home.

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

An important part of manhood has always been about having the competence to be effective in the world — having the breadth of skills, the savoir-faire, to handle any situation you find yourself in. With that in mind, each Sunday we’ll be republishing one of the illustrated guides from our archives, so you can hone your manly know-how week by week.

It can be quite the summertime thrill to jump from a cliff or bridge into a body of water. But it’s not a thrill that should be engaged in recklessly. Although some professional divers can enter the water safely from more than 100 feet, chances are good that you’re not a trained professional, and all jumps — even those from a low height — risk serious injury or death. To mitigate this risk, follow the above guidelines as to your chosen jump spot and body position. 

Illustration by Ted Slampyak

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

A multimeter is invaluable for the DIY troubleshooting of electrical problems around the house. You can use it to identify faulty wiring, check if electrical sockets have power, and test batteries. My electrical engineer brother-in-law, Ryan Davis, recently showed me how to use one. Here’s a write-up of what I learned. Maybe you’ll find it handy.

What Does a Multimeter Measure?

A multimeter measures three electrical properties:

• Voltage (Volts): The electrical potential difference that pushes electrons through a circuit. Measure voltage to check battery charge or verify power in outlets.
• Current (Amps): The flow of electrical charge through a conductor, indicating how much electricity is moving through a circuit. Measure current to verify that circuits or devices are drawing the correct amount of electricity.
• Resistance (Ohms): How much a material opposes electrical flow. Higher resistance means less electricity flow. Measure resistance to check component continuity, verifying that a wire or fuse isn’t broken.

Basic Multimeter Components

Multimeters come in analog and digital forms. One of the nice features of digital multimeters is that they’re auto-ranging, meaning the multimeter automatically selects the correct measurement range for the quantity you’re testing — voltage, current, or resistance — so you don’t have to manually dial in an expected value range. That makes digital multimeters easier for beginners to use.

The main components of a multimeter (whether digital or analog) include:

• Display: Shows the measured value.
• Dial: Lets you select what to measure (voltage, current, resistance).
• Ports: COM (black) and two red ports: one for voltage, resistance, and milliamp/μA measurements, and one for high current (up to 10A). Most pro multimeters separate the ports for measuring voltage/resistance and milliamp/μA. There will be a port you use when you’re measuring voltage and resistance measurements. Never plug into the 10A jack unless you’re measuring large currents.
• Probes: Black (negative) and red (positive) wires to connect to test points.

Real-World Applications

Testing Batteries (Voltage)

You can use a multimeter to test if your batteries still have juice. Here’s how to do it:

Plug the black probe into “COM” and red probe into the milliamp/μA port.

Turn the dial to AC voltage (~ V).

Touch red probe to battery’s positive terminal, black to negative.

Read the display — AA/AAA should be around 1.5V, 9V around 9V, car batteries 12.6V when charged.

Testing for Parasitic Draw (Current)

A few years ago, my car wouldn’t start in the mornings. Once I jumped the battery, it was fine. The battery was good. But then a few days later, the car wouldn’t start again. I made sure I wasn’t leaving dome lights on or anything.

I ended up taking it to a mechanic, and he used a multimeter to discover a parasitic draw from a wireless phone adapter plugged into the cigarette lighter. Here’s how I could have used my multimeter to diagnose this on my own:

1. Set Up Your Meter

• Turn the dial to DC Amps (A⎓ or mA⎓).
• Plug the black lead into COM.
• Plug the red lead into the mA jack.

2. Break the Circuit at the Negative Terminal

Use a wrench to loosen and remove the negative battery cable from the battery post.

3. Connect the Meter in Series

You’re going to place the meter in series, which means you’re connecting it directly into the path of the electrical current. Instead of electricity flowing directly from the battery to the cable, it now flows through the meter first, then continues to the cable. Because the meter and cable form a single continuous path (like links in a chain), they’re said to be connected “in series.” This setup lets the meter measure all the electricity moving through that pathway.

It’s hard to see what I’m doing in this pic, but it’s this:

• Touch the black probe to the negative battery post.
• Touch the red probe to the loose battery cable.
• You’ve now inserted the multimeter in series and the battery current is flowing through your meter.

4. Read the Display

• A normal reading is typically 20–80 milliamps (0.02–0.08A).
• Anything above 100mA (0.1A) is excessive and warrants investigation.

5. Track the Culprit

If the meter reads above 100mA:

• Have another person start pulling fuses one at a time from the fuse box.
• Watch the current draw after each one.
• When the draw drops significantly, you’ve found the circuit responsible. From there, trace what’s connected to it.

Testing Extension Cords (Resistance/Continuity)

Extension cords take a beating. Over time, the insulation can crack, wires can loosen, and corrosion can creep into the connections.

A damaged extension cord is a fire or shock waiting to happen. Fortunately, your multimeter makes it easy to test cords and catch problems before they become dangerous.

Step 1: Check for Continuity and Shorts

Start with the cord completely unplugged.

Set your multimeter to resistance (Ω) or continuity mode. Plug the red probe into the voltage/resistance port.

To test each wire:

Ground:

• Insert the red probe into the round ground hole on the female (plug-in) end.
• Touch the black probe to the round ground prong on the male (wall plug) end.
• Expect a reading under a few ohms depending on cord length and gauge. Anything over ~5 ohms could indicate corrosion or a partial break.

Now check for shorts:

• Keep the red probe in the ground hole and touch the black probe to each flat prong on the male end.
• Your multimeter should display “O.L.” or infinity, indicating no connection. If you get a low reading, the cord has a short and should be tossed.

Hot and Neutral Slots:

Repeat the same procedure for the short (hot) slot and long (neutral) slot:

• Match each slot to its corresponding prong and test for continuity (0.8 ohms or less).
• Cross-test against the other prongs for “O.L.” readings to confirm there are no shorts between wires.

If any test shows continuity between circuits that shouldn’t be connected, that cord goes in the trash. It’s not worth trying to repair.

Step 2: Test for Live Voltage

Once you’ve confirmed the cord isn’t damaged, you can check that it’s delivering voltage properly.

Plug the cord into a live wall outlet.

Set your multimeter to AC voltage (VAC).

Insert the probes into the two female holes of the cord. You should get around 120 volts.

Move one of the probes to the ground hole (it’s round). You should again see ~120 volts.

These readings confirm the cord is carrying voltage properly and safely.

There you go. How to use a multimeter. Whether you’re checking batteries, hunting down mysterious electrical problems in your vehicle, or making sure your extension cords aren’t fire hazards waiting to happen, this simple tool can save you time, money, and headaches.

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

An important part of manhood has always been about having the competence to be effective in the world — having the breadth of skills, the savoir-faire, to handle any situation you find yourself in. With that in mind, each Sunday we’ll be republishing one of the illustrated guides from our archives, so you can hone your manly know-how week by week.

The bowline is one of the most useful knots you can know. Simple to tie, and easy to undo, the beauty of the bowline is that it creates a quick loop secured by a knot that tightens when under load. Sailors use the bowline to fasten halyards and other rigging, which require a super-secure connection.  

The one-handed bowline is a technique that allows you to tie the knot using only one hand. Why is that useful? Imagine you’ve slipped and fallen into a rushing river. At the last second, you grab the branch of a tree, but you can’t pull yourself up. A friend tosses you a rope to tie around yourself, but the only knots you can tie would require the use of both hands. With a one-handed bowline, you can secure a loop around your body while still holding onto the branch.

In most scenarios, this is a survival knot tied around your waist, but it can be adapted to a number of circumstances.  

Like this illustrated guide? Then you’re going to love our book The Illustrated Art of Manliness! Pick up a copy on Amazon.

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

The military shower, also known as the “Navy” or “combat” shower, is a method of showering that conserves water by employing a strategic stop-and-start approach. While it originated on naval ships where freshwater is limited, the method is also deployed by other branches of the military in water-scarce environments — like remote bases, forward operating posts, and field-training exercises.

The process of a military shower is simple: get wet, shut off the water, soap up, turn the water back on, and rinse off fast. That’s it. It’s efficient and effective: while the average shower lasts eight minutes and uses around twenty gallons of water, a military shower can be done in as little as two minutes and uses less than three gallons. And it still gets you clean.

For civilians, the military shower is useful if you want to lower your water bill and conserve resources, and it can be utilized in situations where water may be rationed or scarce — like camping or grid-down emergencies. Or it can simply be practiced as a daily exercise in self-discipline.

If you find yourself even shorter on water, use the “bird bath” technique to clean up. Skip the shower entirely and wash with a washcloth, a small basin of water, and some soap. Focus on the key zones: face, pits, groin, and feet. It won’t get you all the way clean, but it’ll freshen you up when water’s most scarce.

Illustration by Ted Slampyak

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.

An important part of manhood has always been about having the competence to be effective in the world — having the breadth of skills, the savoir-faire, to handle any situation you find yourself in. With that in mind, each Sunday we’ll be republishing one of the illustrated guides from our archives, so you can hone your manly know-how week by week.

Many people, especially outdoorsy types, know the story of Christopher McCandless, as famously told in author Jon Krakauer’s book (and the film of the same name) Into the Wild. 

After surviving in the Alaskan wilderness for over 100 days, the rogue adventurer ultimately died in an abandoned bus there. The official cause of McCandless’ death has always been listed as starvation, but Krakauer felt like there was more to the story. In a journal entry a few weeks before he died, McCandless wrote, “Extremely weak. Fault of pot. seed . . .” He was referring to seeds from Eskimo potato, also known as alpine sweetvetch.

After years of investigation, Kraukeur and a chemist discovered a toxin in the potato seeds that could have extremely negative effects on the body, if enough of them were consumed. 

The story of Christopher McCandless reminds us that eating and foraging wild plants is a risky game. As a hiker or backpacker, you might encounter a thousand plant species on a single trip, and any number of them might be edible. Others . . . could kill you with a single bite. 

The best way to determine if a plant is edible is to study up before you ever hit the trail, and consider carrying an edible plant identification guide. But, if you find yourself in a desperate situation, and you’re not sure if you can eat something or not, there is a universal edibility test, which we walk you through above, that can lead you toward safer plants. 

Like this illustrated guide? Then you’re going to love our book The Illustrated Art of Manliness! Pick up a copy on Amazon.

This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.